Distinction in Nuance: Two processes by Mustefa Abakeno

Ethiopia produces some of the most expressive coffees in the world, prized for its high fruitiness and florality. However, this flavorsome characteristic can be too intense, making Ethiopian coffee divisive for some people. We love coffees that let’s us taste the rainbow, but there’s also something alluring about delicate coffees that emanate softer shades of the sunset. 

We’ve turned to none other than Mustefa Abakeno to showcase some delightfully delicate yet flavorful Ethiopian coffees. For several years now, Mustefa has supplied us with coffees that bring brightness to our Wind & Sea and Short Strand blends. This spring, we’re excited to feature two of his coffees as single origins.

Touring Mustefa's farm in 2025. Pictured from left to right: Michael, Mustefa, Harun (Falcon Coffee Importers agronomist), Brian (Falcon Coffee Specialty Sales), and Corazon (me!)

Mustefa Abakeno farms in Beshesha Bekele, a village near Agaro, in the Jimma Zone (also referred to as the Limu Zone) of western Ethiopia. A father of eight children himself, he inherited a 10-hectare farm from his father, and it has since grown to 18 hectares. As a founding member of the Hundaoli PC and Kata Muduga Unions in the area, Mustefa is well respected within the community. He is both a coffee farmer and a coffee exporter; he not only grows and processes his own coffee but also processes coffees from other smallholder farmers. Most Ethiopian coffee farmers have less than 2 hectares of farmland to grow both coffee and subsistence crops, and don’t have the capital to build their own sites. So, working with washing stations is often the most efficient way to process their coffee. As of today, Mustefa collaborates with 228 farmers across the five washing stations he manages.

With his commitment to quality, Mustefa has become well-known for producing specialty coffee and is a model farmer for others in the region. He’s invested in infrastructure and has stumped his trees over the years to stimulate new growth. He practices water conservation, soil management, and coffee tree rejuvenation, and teaches other farmers in the area to do the same.

On very hot days, coffee is dried in partial shade to prevent the coffees from drying too fast. Slow, even drying helps preserve quality and flavor. 

We love Mustefa’s coffees for their sweetness and balanced acidity, and we’re featuring both washed and natural processed coffees to highlight the nuances of coffees from the Limu area. In the washed process, coffee cherries are depulped and fermented in tanks to help remove the mucilage. Afterwards, the coffee is washed with clean water, then placed on raised drying beds. They are rotated by hand regularly to promote even drying. This process best showcases the terroir of the Jimma area, and we savor this coffee for its stone-fruit acidity and jammy body, reminiscent of caramel and marmalade.

Fully dried natural process coffee, ready to hull.

In the natural process, freshly picked ripe cherries are placed immediately on raised drying beds. Similar to washed coffees, natural process coffees are rotated by hand to promote even drying, which takes longer because the entire cherry must be dried. Once ready, they are mechanically processed to remove the dried husks. This process often draws out more sweetness and body. This natural process coffee from Mustefa is delicate and elegant: it has light berry notes, a plum-like acidity, and a body that changes based on how it's brewed. A coarser grind or lighter dose accentuates a tea-like body with tart florality similar to hibiscus, while a finer grind or heavier dose brings out a syrupy body with a light-perfumed floral aftertaste.

On our trip in 2025, Mustefa intercepted us on the road to send us off with a parting gift: honey from his farms!

We’re excited to present this double feature from Mustefa to highlight his hard work and demonstrate the difference in processing methods using the same coffee from a single producer. If you’re an enthusiast of Ethiopian coffees, you’ll find these coffees comforting and suitable for drinking at any time of day. If you’re new to Ethiopian coffee and want to venture into distinct coffees slowly, you’ll find these coffees toothsome with just the right amount of brightness, fruitiness, and florality!